Surprisingly, ten foods from our oceans

1. Grain of the sea

Yes, you read that right: Just like the expensive, sprawling fields of rice, wheat, chia, quinoa, and rye on land, expanses of wheat grow under water. In a study published in Science in 1973, researchers described how the Seri, an indigenous people living along the Gulf of California in the Mexican state of Sonora, have for generations grown grain made from seaweed ( Zostera marina), a type of plant that flourishes under sea waters. After the harvest, the Seri turn this grain into flour, just as people around the world do with wheat and rice. Once the grass has been dried and threshed, they collect the seeds which are then toasted and pulverized to transform them into flour. They therefore mix the flour in the water and flavor the mixture with honey, with the oily seeds of other plants and, sometimes, with sea turtle oil.

Currently, in Spain, a Michelin-awarded chef, Ángel León has set himself the goal of popularizing Z. marina wheat among city palates. After making a name for himself in the gastronomic universe for highlighting unknown marine foods on the menu of his Cádiz restaurant, Aponiente, León has teamed up in partnership with marine researchers from the University of Cádiz and the government of the region to try to cultivate seaweed in the salt marshes of the city. León's goal, according to Time, is to use seaweed to make bread, oil and even ferment it to make sake. Being able to ensure the water, temperature and salinity conditions necessary for seaweed to grow could have other benefits: it could contribute to the recovery of seaweed beds that are disappearing around the world and which are home to sea turtles, seahorses and other marine animals . Furthermore, since seaweed does not require fresh water to grow, its beds could help support food production in a water-scarce future, while also sequestering excess carbon, Leon told the Guardian .


2. Sea truffles

Truffles, those earthy, pungent expensive mushrooms that are synonymous with fine dining, have an oceanic counterpart. I present to you Vertebrata lanosa , a red seaweed that some chefs have nicknamed sea truffle. These bristly seaweeds, whose taste and smell are said to be very reminiscent of oceanic truffles, notoriously grow primarily on the cold-water seaweed Ascophyllum nodosum on the beaches of the British Isles and in countries such as Iceland, Norway and Canada. People typically grow them by hand in the wild.



3. Vegetarian caviar

Like truffles, another luxury food that has found a substitute in seaweed is caviar: those very expensive salted roe or mounds of fish roe that can cost thousands of dollars a kilo. Typically, caviar comes from large fish such as sturgeon (family Acipenseridae) and paddlefish (family Polyodontidae), many of which are endangered. Although most caviar today is made from farmed fish, the process of removing the eggs raises some ethical questions and research indicates that sturgeon is still passed off as 'wild' caviar.

Introduce vegetarian caviar: jelly-like, salty pearls made from large algae or kelp such as Laminaria hyperborean . Spread kelp caviar on toast or use it as a garnish in the increasingly popular fashion of chefs around the world, and you have the cheapest vegetarian substitute for roe, lumpfish and cod. Kelp caviar also has a longer shelf life: up to three months after opening, according to Caviart, a Danish company that produces kelp caviar, which shelf life is about three times longer than fish caviar once opened. Could kelp caviar prove to be the 'golden egg' of the future, as Caviart claims?


4. Herring roe on kelp

There is another delicacy that involves both kelp and fish roe. It is the kelp coated by the roe of the Pacific herring ( Clupea pallasii ), a highly prized food among the First Nations of British Columbia, Canada, as well as Alaska, Washington state and the United States. For generations, First Nations have sold herring roe to neighboring tribes. Currently, these countries also process and package much of its crispy products for the Japanese market, where they are popular with sushi lovers.

Pacific herring is important not only to the indigenous peoples of BC but also to wildlife such as salmon, wolves, sea lions, otters and seabirds that await the arrival in hordes of this yearly fish. However, things are not looking good for herring. First Nations have issued a warning over the decimation of herring populations on Canada's west coast, ordering a moratorium on commercial fishing of this species until their stock is recovered.


5. Kelp-based alcohol

How about a kelp beer? Or maybe some kelp rum? Or even, to correct your cocktail by flavoring it with a touch of kelp? 

From Great Britain to Sweden , the US , Scotland and Canada , distilleries around the world have created kelp-flavored distilled beer; and not just the beer. Spirits producers experiment with kelp-infused rum and gin and seaweed-smoked barrel-aged whiskey. Kelp also begins to be used in cocktails such as martini.

We talk a lot about kelp here, and that's because this type of seaweed is extremely versatile and can be grown easily along the shoreline. In fact, countries like China, Japan and South Korea have been cultivating seaweeds, including kelp, for hundreds of years. These large algae are good for the climate as they absorb excess carbon from the atmosphere, deacidify the ocean and need no fertilizers.


6. Fish jerky

You know those fish fillets so perfect they could have been ordered at the restaurant? The threading process produces a ton of waste, not just the head and bones but also any parts that aren't the desired shape and size. This waste can be used in animal feed or fertilizer, or thrown away. What if you could turn these 'unwanted' but perfectly edible bits into tasty snacks? This is just what Nick Mendoza, a former marine scientist, has managed to do with his series of fish jerky.

After many trials to create a product that has "the taste, texture and aroma of beef jerky", his company, NeptuneSnacks, now sells jerkyderived from white fish that is caught on the west coast of the United States by small artisanal fishermen.

His company uses fish waste from fisheries that have Marine Stewardship Council certification, a voluntary certification tool that sets sustainability standards. Then, they work and manufacture their products in Seattle, which is not very far away. In addition, NeptuneSnacks procures a QR code on the packaging of their jerky through which the consumer can read where the fish contained therein was caught and by whom.


7. Unwanted Treasures

Sparids ( Stenotomus chrysops ), triggerfishes (family Balistidae), silver-bellied fishes ( Gerres spp.), the lizardfishes (family of the Synodontidae), the needlefishes or pipefishes (family of the Belonidae). Often caught by mistake by anglers looking for more popular species, these fish tend to be classified as low value, undesirable or even 'garbage'. Thus, these animals are usually thrown away or used in animal or fish feed. However, just about everywhere in the world, there is a growing trend to diversify our seafood palates to include these undesirable marine animals, many of which are just as good as the more popular fish even though you've never heard of them. Furthermore,

In India, for example, the marine geographer Divya Karnad founded InSeason Fish , a collective activity aimed at promoting awareness of those unthreatened and little-known varieties of fish that can be eaten monthly in a sustainable way. The group's educational materials direct consumer interest in species such as silver-bellied fish, lizardfish and anchovies (family Engraulidae), away from more popular and overfished foods such as clairvoyant fish (Scomberomorus guttatus) and pomfret (of the family Bramidae).

In other parts of the world, chefs lead the way. Chef León, for example, has based his entire menu on fish that would otherwise be thrown away, such as pandora fish, krill, sea bream and mackerel.


8. Eat the invaders

One way to deal with the uncontrollable numbers of invading organisms, those species introduced to new regions by the accidental or deliberate action of man, is to eat them. The lionfish (Pterois volitans and P. miles) is the testimonial of this narrative. If you live in the United States, you may have eaten this punk-headed spiny fish. Native to the Indian and South Pacific oceans, the lionfish is established in the Atlantic, where it has no known predators and devours native fish species. And so, prompted by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, chefs have begun serving lionfish in their restaurants, while its fillets fill grocery stores like Whole Foods.

There are those who turn many other marine invaders into culinary delights. Chef Bun Lai , for example, has created his own menu based on the invader species. Miya's, his family restaurant in Connecticut, serves lionfish but also fish species that act as invaders in other areas, such as the Asian riparian crab ( Hemigrapsus sanguineus ) native to the Western Pacific Ocean, the green crab ( Carcinus maenas ) native of Atlantic Europe and North Africa, and the periwinkle ( Littorina littorea ), a snail native to Europe.

The idea is to create a culinary demand for the invading species in order to cause their collapse thus favoring the recovery of the native species. After all, humans have overfished species such as Pacific herring and Atlantic cod to extinction. However, some scientists warn that eating the invading species may not have the desired effect for several reasons. For example, there is little evidence that this strategy can eradicate invasive species, which typically tend to have high reproductive rates, the researchers explain. Furthermore, creating a demand for invasive species can create an incentive for maintaining their population or even cause them to spread to other areas.


9. We eat farmed fish, but what does this in turn eat?


Most of the fish eaten in the world, more than half to be precise, comes from fish farms or aquacultures. This should reduce the pressure on our oceans, but there is a problem: just like animals raised on land, farmed fish need to be fed. Much of what they eat comes from fish feed and oil, which in turn comes from wild marine animals such as anchovies, sardines, krill and mackerel – the same species upon which predators such as seabirds, the larger carnivorous fish and cetaceans depend, as do local fishing communities. Therefore, there are those who are looking for alternatives. Proteins from wheat and corn crops could be used but these do not have the same ideal nutrient profile that fish need.

Other farms like Protix based in the Netherlands and AgriProtein based in South Africa do the same.

Then there are the bacteria. Using modern fermentation techniques and technologies, companies such as Massachusetts-based KnipBio and California-based Feedkind produce bacteria-derived proteins for use as fish feed.

If insect and bacteria-derived fish feed becomes popular, our farmed fish and shrimp could become more sustainable options than they currently are.


10. Sea jelly

Processes such as removing heads and shells, removing fins and scales, gutting and filleting can generate waste equal to 50% of the animal's weight. Why throw away parts that could be turned into useful ingredients?

For example, fish oil is a widely used marine ingredient that is introduced into dietary supplements and animal feed. We also think of carrageenan, another well-known food additive that is extracted from a kind of red seaweed to be used as a thickener in a number of products such as ice cream, peanut butter and pudding.

Another marine ingredient that aims to replace a land-derived product is gelatin. Used to thicken and stabilize foods such as jams, soups and sauces, gelatin is usually derived from the bones, skin and connective tissue of land livestock, such as cattle and sheep. However, the use of these animals involves issues of a climatic, religious and health nature. Thus, marine animal waste could offer a sustainable alternative, creating gelatin from waste from scaling of species such as snapper and red tilapia, fin waste from canned tuna processing, and solid waste from surimi, the false crab.

The global fish gelatine market has seen steady growth, according to the report published by Allied Market Research, a company based in Portland, Oregon, according to which forecasts this market could bring in 496.3 million dollars by the 2030, and up to $276.1 million in 2020. However, there are challenges to popularizing fish gelatine in industries such as food and pharmaceuticals, argues a study recently published in Nature. The extraction process is currently not the cleanest. Furthermore, fish gelatine requires a different treatment than beef and mutton. For example, the gelatin extracted from fish melts at lower temperatures than the aforementioned meats and, unsurprisingly, has a strong fishy taste.

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